Friday, September 6, 2019

Day 1 & Day 2 - Flight Delays, Missed Connections, Cancellations, oh my!

Day 1 & Day 2 - August 22-23, 2019

We left our house around 6am and headed to SFO to catch our 9:30am flight. We arrived with plenty of time and even had time to grab a quick bite to eat and a coffee. 


Preflight Cocktails of course


We went to our gate and got in the United boarding group #2 to await the boarding. Moments before we were to begin boarding the dreaded announcement of a delay came across the intercom in the airport. 

"Flight is delayed due to maintenance, next update in 20 minutes," went the intercom. 

At this point we began to have flashbacks to another terrible delay experience with United when flying back from Maui. 

We only had about an hour and a few minutes to connect to our international flight. I approached the counter and spoke to the United team member. I asked her how confident she was about the plane actually being ready in 20 minutes or if we were going to get another delay notice in 20 minutes that says there will be an hour delay, etc. She proceeded to talk me down from booking an alternative international flight with such confidence that I went back to the line. 

"We've got a plane!" said another passenger moments later. Was disaster avoided? At this point we all got excited in the lines and expected to board soon. Not the case exactly. We stood for easily another 20 minutes waiting for the plane to be ready to board. Then we finally started boarding and it was super slow. By the time we took off the flight attendants came over to us and talked to us about how we still had time to make our connecting flight and showed us maps and the gate and all of that stuff. We had a small amount of hope. 

Bye San Francisco

The flight was decent and as we approached Newark, New Jersey our flight crew let us know that we in fact did not make up any time. They said that the 7 folks on board bound for Venice had about 20 minutes to make their connecting flight. Well awesome! The United lady told me that the gate was super close and I had a map!

We landed in Newark and were making pretty good time taxiing to the gate. As we approached our turn for the gate we didn't make the turn, but then instead of turning we kept going straight past it. After a few minutes more of taxiing the flight crew announced that the row was full of planes being backed up and waiting to take off. We had to wait a little before our row cleared out. Then we were sitting for more than 45 minutes. One flight attendant kept looking at his phone telling us our connecting flight had not "pushed back" away from the terminal indicating they have left. 

As we finally got to the gate we were something close to 40 minutes after boarding time for the connecting flight. Deanna and I grabbed our staff and proceeded to sprint through Newark airport. As we approached the gate we thought it was, we saw that the sign on that gate was for another flight. We then looked up the gate data again and it said a completely different gate number. 

We began running to that new gate number which was on a completely different finger of the terminal. We ran over there and the sign was not indicating our flight or destination. I talked to the lady at the counter and she said that the flight was gone. We would have to go to customer service for help now. She was very rude about it. 

We ran over to the United customer service counter at this point. The line was like 10 people deep and going very slow. Now we stood there sweating and being miserable while other people were being helped. Finally we got up to the counter and I began to explain what was happening to the "nice lady" behind the counter. She immediately responded with a pretty hostile vibe which made me realize how I have to adjust the way I'm speaking to her to get anywhere. So I began breaking down the history of what just happened to us in simple terms that she could understand. She said that we were automatically rebooked to a flight the following day at 6:30pm. No notice, just rebooked. I then explained that "it would be ideal for us to try to get on something sooner than the following day so we can try to stay on our vacation plan schedule" and that seemed to get her to look up more options. After much round and round and round discussion with her we settled on an 11:30pm flight with SWISS Airlines. The only part that seemed a bit sketchy was that the United employee helping us mentioned they would reroute our luggage to our new flight. It just seemed like United had no ability to achieve such a task to reroute a bag to a new flight, which left us walking away away lacking that warm and fuzzy feeling that you seek when asking for help. 

We left United and headed out of the airport security areas and got in line to the Swiss airlines check in. We had an easy going interaction with them and got our boarding passes. From there we proceeded to a completely new security checkpoint for a group of European airlines. If you know Newark airport it was the B68 area. The line was very long for this checkpoint. At this point in the Newark airport someone set off the fire alarms. We spent the next hour or more dripping sweat, winding our way through our 2nd security checkpoint of the day and listening to a very loud whooping noise from the alarm. The best part (sarcasm) was when the line would wind us back in front of the alarm that is on the pole near the line. So we got the full audible joy from that alarm. 

After we got our passports checked we saw a small line open up on the righthand side for TSA precheck folks so we asked if we could go that way and they said yes. We went over there and saved some time. Sweeeeeet! Finally a little win. 

We made our way over to the Swiss airlines gate and sat down to relax. All good and ready to board. Our flight was going to go from Newark to Munich to Venice. We were fine with that because it was putting us into Venice at around 2pm the following day. Not too bad of a delay. 

We were sitting at the Swiss gate waiting with everyone else when they came on the intercom and announced a 20 minute delay for information. "There is a delay and you will know more in 20 minutes." They said the plane was in Boston right now when it was supposed to be in New Jersey. 

About 25 minutes later they changed the flight status to CANCELLED!!!!!!

At this point the entire gate area went into full meltdown mode. People were kicking trash cans. Tears began to flow. Everyone got into the line to talk to the gate workers and we stood there not knowing what steps to take next. We were on United who helped us book a Swiss flight and now that cancelled. Do we now book another flight through Swiss? Do we book through United? The line was so long at this gate it was useless to even try. This got pretty confusing. The Swiss staff got on the intercom and told everyone they better go get their luggage at carousel 1 before doing anything. So we grabbed our carry on luggage and headed out of the airport security area again. 

We decided we should go talk to Swiss air check in counter first so we can try to work out our alternative flight options. We stood in line for around 15 minutes when they started yelling out that they would not help ANYONE that didn't get their baggage first from the baggage carousel prior to coming to the counter. 

So we left the line and headed towards the baggage claim area. On the way we overheard a kid who was also on the Swiss flight saying that he was able to rebook on the phone just now through SAS airlines and that we should call. YESSS. So I got on the phone and called. After probably 30 minutes on the phone we finalized on an Austrian Airlines flight at 5:30pm on Friday(the day after) that went to Vienna and then connected to a flight to Venice. This would put us in Venice almost exactly a day later than planned. The Swiss support person asked us about our baggage and we provided the baggage claim tickets to her. She found that United had not moved our baggage to the new flight at all. There was no chance we would have had our baggage following us at that point. Hindsight would tell me that keeping that 6:30pm flight from United may have been great, but at this point I personally felt it was not worth giving them another chance. I think I'm done with United(again). 

Knowing that our baggage wasn't rerouted we chose to head over to United Baggage claim support services to try to get our bags in hand. This line was pretty long and we learned while waiting that over 30 planes had been cancelled due to weather. Our first flight was maintenance delayed. Our 2nd flight was weather. 

When we got up to the counter I explained our story in a soft, calm and relaxed manner to try to approach the counter worker with a good vibe. We were met with pretty good vibes from her, despite the chaos around her. She said that it would be useless for us to stick around and wait for a "retrieval request" because with all the cancellations it was running close to 6 hours for those to happen. Okay, no problem. We mentioned that Swiss was giving out vouchers and that we would be fine with putting in the retrieval and then picking the bags up in the morning. When she overheard us talking about hotel vouchers from Swiss she looked up our original flight plan. When she confirmed that we were not delayed for weather she printed us a Best Western Plus voucher and something like $60 in airport food vouchers. "Wow, sweet win!" lol. So we thought. We'll just come back in the morning and grab our stuff. 

This was our Retrieval request on the 22nd Evening

We had a quick pizza(actually really good) using one airport voucher and then grabbed the Doubletree/Best Western shuttle to take us deep into New Jersey to our hotel. The hotel was pretty nice actually. It was the Best Western Plus, Robert Treat. It was kind of fancy looking and was nicer than many hotels I've stayed at in New York. 

Sign outside our Best Western Hotel in Newark

In the morning we caught the same shuttle back to Newark airport. We decided to head directly to the "QOH" window where our bags were supposed to be waiting for us. We approached this window and were met with blank stares from the 2 "wonderful ladies" working in this space. So again, I had to take the words I was saying and restructure them to try to trigger some sort of helpful response from a United employee. I explained our situation and about the retrieval and how we should just be able to get our bags now. The lady working the window told me that "those retrievals get wiped and they aren't active anymore." So nothing we worked on the night before mattered? Great. She then indicated that there was an attempted scan of our baggage that morning on an 11am flight to Venice. But the fact we were not on that plane made the baggage get held again. This makes sense because why would you send baggage where it shouldn't be going? But it was confusing that United would have tried to send the bags with no real connection to our personal schedules. We discussed retrieval options with her. She said that she could reroute it or retrieve it. 

We felt that United was having difficulties handling a simple reroute so we went with the retrieval option. I mean we had like 5 hours before our flight that day so we thought it was pretty possible to get our bags by then right? *FORESHADOWING* AMIRITE? This lady put in the retrieval for us and told us to go wait at carousel 9. That's where the retrievals go. We went over to carousel 9 like a couple of expat refugees with no home. I felt like Tom Hanks in that airport movie where he lives there forever. We sat at the #9 as we watched 1 bag every hour come out of retrieval. We knew it was a retrieval because they had a big tag on them that had a giant R in red. We also saw some rando golf club bags come out because this was also the large bag carousel. We kept getting pretty excited every time the buzzer for luggage went off, but also we were losing patience. 
This is how United protects baggage. They just put it behind a rope. 

After an hour and a half I went back to the same baggage services window and asked for help again. Not the QOH window but the window from the night before. I explained our entire story again(for like the 4th time) to the person working. She was a nice lady and said that we should give it another hour and then come back if there was no sign of our bags. 

We waited. And waited. And waited. 


We got some coffee from Dunkin' while we waited. 

Carousel 9, our 2nd Home
It was about 3 hours into the new retrieval request and no action. I went back up to the counter and asked about the situation. I explained our story again for the 5th time and the person helping me suggested at this point that United simply reroute our luggage to the Austrian airlines flights. She even took the extra special step of calling "her man" down in the international rerouting area to double confirm that it would be rerouted. Then she hung up and explained that it would be rerouted. I asked her "how good do you feel about this? Is our baggage going to make it?" to which she replied "I feel really good. It will be there." Well what more can you ask for right? 

We left the baggage area and headed back into the B gate security check area again. It was shorter, but still probably took 45 minutes. Luckily there was no fire alarm this time. We were in with plenty of time to get on the Austrian airlines flight. We were astonished that we actually boarded a plane leaving Newark finally! Sorry New Jersey, we need to see other people. 

Our Austrian airlines flight was quite pleasant. The staff onboard were hustling. They started us all off with drinks. Then they came by with more drinks. Then they came by with dinner. Then they came right back with more drinks. Then they took a nap. Then they woke up and hit us with pastries for breakfast. I loved the effort and positive attitudes on this plane. I would definitely fly Austrian again. 
Austrian Airlines Guide to your Connecting Flights. Very Convenient. 

That is the end of day 1. 

Full Pictures linked here.


Thursday, September 5, 2019

Day 3 - We are in Venice!

Day 3 - August 24, 2019

We landed in Vienna without incident. Then briskly walked over to our connecting flight gate. The Vienna airport is really nice. The paths were very well marked and labeled from gate to gate as we wandered down the long winding hallways to the gate. We were there in just enough time for a bathroom break and then boarding time. We were ushered out to a shuttle that brought us a good distance away to the twin turboprop plane with everyone else that was on the flight. That flight was pretty smooth and simple although a bit snug. 
Arrows to our next flight in Vienna


Vienna Airport

I was unable to get a good flyover photo of Venice due to our plane's wings and propeller, but it was neat to see Venice from the sky. It was small compared to everything around it and seriously just resides in the middle of a lagoon. We landed in Venice at Marco Polo airport. We couldn't believe we were finally here after what felt like forever. It was essentially 48 hours after we left SFO that we arrived in Venice. 

We went to the baggage carousel for our flight and watched as our entire flight grabbed their luggage, but ours never came out. As we sat there trying to figure out next move yet again, a teenage girl came up to us and mentioned that she couldn't find her bags either. The distress on her face was familiar to us at this point. We felt really bad and tried to offer what advice and comfort we could, but we were not getting anywhere with our luggage either. 

We saw there was a baggage lost and found area at the Marco Polo airport. We punched in our data and took a number. There were quite a few people also waiting for their luggage. When we were called I went up to the counter to give the entire story to the Italian Lost and Found worker. She was very nice, empathetic and responsive. She spoke english and was very helpful. The Italian airport lady indicated that our baggage had not moved from New Jersey at all. She said they would put in an urgent reroute on the bags and that they would have them in Venice in the morning. It sounded too good to be true, but it was all we could really do. We were without our luggage and roughing it a bit. 

We took our carry on baggage, lost and found slips and headed out to our boat water taxi towards Venice. This was the 2nd taxi we had to book. We missed our first prepaid boat taxi and they would not let us reschedule it. They called it a "no show." That was a bummer. 
Our Italian Lost and Found Slip


Our Taxi Boat to Venice

The boat ride out was pretty rough. They packed us in like sardines and it was really hot inside. We were speeding along at a pretty fast pace, bouncing off opposing boat wakes along the way. We arrived in Venice and slowly motored around the canals dropping off passengers here and there. The taxi drivers are very experienced in the canals and know how to approach the docks and dump people off. They weren't very sweet to people, more matter of fact and usually just bumped up against the walls with their boats and had them get off as quickly as possible. 

Venice is awe inspiring from first sight. It's a city that was founded by townspeople fleeing the invading barbarians on the mainland. They went out to the middle of the lagoon and began to build a living space among the many tiny islands that were there. They built on wooden planks, posts and piers. Over time those planks petrified and became the foundation for more and more buildings and concrete foundations on top of that. 

We arrived at the San Angelo pier where we both jumped off the taxi boat. A short walk through a piazza, down the side of a canal and over a bridge brought us to our hotel. We stayed at the Corte de Gabriela in San Marco. This hotel is pretty cute. They were very nice to us upon arrival. We were met with glasses of Prosecco, a small gift box of supplies we may need and then they secretly left a notebook in our room later. This hotel also has a back door that opens to a small canal, where you can be dropped off directly at the hotel, but a private taxi costs quite a lot more. 
San Angelo Pier Drop Off in San Marco


Us Posing over a canal


Our Hotel in Venice


Prosecco Delivered to us by our Hotel


The back door to our hotel. 

We freshened up a bit and asked our hotel staff for food recommendations. We had a couple tours scheduled on this day also. We were supposed to visit the Doge palace first, but that timing was a bit too tight so we decided to forfeit that one. 


The other tour we had was a sunset boat cruise and a bottle of Prosecco. We left our hotel to try to go to the meeting point. I confused the meeting point for this tour with the one for the Doge tour and led us to the wrong place. We got there in time, but then realized it was wrong. The other meeting point was a good distance away so we had no chance. Two tours forfeited so far. Boo. We were in the Piazza San Marco so we tried to make the best of it and took some photos of the Piazza, the Basilica and the Campanile (tower). 
St. Mark's Square, Campanile and Basilica


St. Mark's Basilica


St. Mark's Basilica
When you're walking around the narrow alleyways, tiny bridges and uneven ground of Venice it is almost like you're in a maze. But almost all the paths intersect, except for the occasional dead end. We hit a few. 


Venice is full of tourists, but we quickly started to love its overall vibe. It's easy to take your mind off of not having your lugged and taking 2 days to get somewhere when you are seeing amazing things like the canals and the people of Venice. 

By the way, everyone we encountered in Venice spoke pretty good English. We always lead with "Parla Inglese?" to get things moving along. 

After our looked around the Piazza we we decided to head back to our hotel and then plan for dinner. We stopped by the Rialto bridge (wiki) and took some pictures and really soaked in the Venice scene for a bit. It was thick with tourists but also the perfect moment as the sun was drifting behind the city. Watching this place hustle and bustle with just boat traffic is really cool. I think I would love living here. 
Rialto Bridge


View from the Rialto Bridge




The Gondola Crowds. (Not worth the money we heard)


Just a crumbly wall building. 

We headed back to our room and dropped off some shopping purchases. We got ready for dinner and headed over to Acqua Pazzo which was one of the places recommended by our hotel staff. We ordered Fried Squash Blossoms Stuffed with Ricotta Cheese, Ceviche, Lobster Pasta, Shrimp Pasta, Fried Calamari and a bottle of wine. Overall it was like a 6 out of 10. The meal was mostly uninspired but wasn't terrible. I think this restaurant isn't truly that great, but is a tourist referral spot for some reason. 


Ricotta Filled Squash Blossoms

Fried Calamari

Lobster Pasta

Shrimp Pasta

Some sort of Watermelon Liquor Dessert

Finally some Wine
After dinner we went for a stroll through Venice and took some more photos. I also found a really tasty Gelato place. No pics of the ice cream though. Here are some more from our walking around.


Venice has wells! Read about their amazing invention here.


This is the kind of wall that Italian restaurants paint on their walls in America. 


This thing was blinking and reminded us of Burning Man "art"




Hot Venice Canal Action
That is the end of Day 2. We are in Venice.

Full Pictures linked here.

Wednesday, September 4, 2019

Day 4 - Venice to Modena

Day 4 - August 25, 2019

We woke up in Venice on what was now the 4th day of our vacation. Our hotel included a buffet style breakfast in the morning. We went out to the lobby and had some of what was left of the spread. There were quite a few fruit flies on the cantaloupe but the rest of it was in great shape. We had mimosas, tea and Italian Moka coffee. It was all pretty good. We only learned after we were half way through that we could have ordered eggs as well. 






We quickly packed up our stuff and headed out to the San Angelo pier again to catch our water taxi back to the airport. This taxi was the 2nd leg of the tour that we "no showed" on and lost our payment for. When we arrived at the pier the one side of the pier said you had to show a code to enter. I didn't really have a code but there was a QR barcode on my ticket for the taxi so I tried that. It didn't work. Then some guy came over to try to assist us and told us to just go in through the exit. Okay, we'll try that... then nearby another guy walked up and asked if I was Mackenzie. To which I confirmed and he confirmed he was our ride. He was parked on the side of the main pier. We started to walk over there and as we left the guy that helped us with the gate to the main pier asked for money for helping him in Italian. I played dumb and kept on walking. lol. 

Our boat was similar style to the rest of the small taxi speed boats. It was exactly like the one we took in the day before. This time it was just us and another lady in the boat to start. We boated around a bit and wound up at another dock where a few more people loaded in. Then we went and picked up another lady. 

We took the group of people around the corner a few canals and dropped them off at a pretty large yacht. We drove the boat up to their back swimming dock on their boat and they jumped over to it. 

We started cruising our way out to the main waterway and had a chance to take in some more sights and sounds of Venice on the way. Deanna made a great discovery of a pretty popular Banksy mural that I completely didn't see and would have not gotten a picture of if she didn't point it out. I was excited to see it!


Banksy's Migrant Child Mural





Venice Fireboats 




Pretty soon our boat made it to the main channel and headed toward the airport terminal. This time our boat encountered a lot less oncoming wakes. The ride was smoother because of this and I was able to sit in the back of the boat and take in some fresh air from the trip. We also saw some folks getting a ticket from a polizei boat as we traveled by. I recall us speeding through this area the day before, so I guess the speed limit is much slower than that. Our boat was going pretty slow at the time we past the police boat. 

Bye Venice!!

Cruise Ships in Venice
We arrived at the terminal dock and unloaded our carry on gear. At this point in our trip we could finally walk a bit slower and not rush. We felt like every move we were making until this moment was in such a rush and hectic pace. We stood on the moving sidewalks the entire way through the connecting hallway to the airport terminals. It was nice and relaxing. 

When we entered the airport terminal it was now time to see if the Italian lost baggage team made miracles happen in getting our bags to arrive in Italy or not. 

We headed over to the "GH Venezia, Lost & Found Office" which was just outside the baggage claim area. I handed the attendant my lost and found claim and my United ticket tags. He said he'd be right back to check. He came back a few minutes later and gave me a thumbs up through the window. OMGGGGGGGGGG, they had our bags!!!

He directed me to go to the end of the aisle to a security checkpoint hallway. I went down to that checkpoint which was sort of an employee entrance. I was about to enter through their metal detector when the person there told me to stop. They didn't speak any english so I had a hard time understanding other than I should "STOP" and "WAIT" over there. lol. So I went back out a little and stood until my lost and found guy came to rescue me and get me through. I followed him to a private room full of luggage. As we went in there they were, our two suitcases. I couldn't believe it. I wheeled them out to meet Deanna and we took a picture of them being reunited. :)
Our recovered baggage! And Deanna's carry on. 

I immediately received an email from the Venice airport that they had found our lost luggage. That notice alone was far superior than the kind of notices and updates that United or US airline services in general provide. Sometimes you know something is delayed before the United app or vice versa. The app updates you that you are delayed but the gate attendants have no idea. It's very frustrating. 


At this point were so happy to have our bags and to be back on our regularly scheduled vacation plan. Our next step was to go pick up our rental car. 

I had prepaid for a rental car through rentalcars.com that had a car reserved for us at the Hertz counter in Marco Polo airport. I also prepaid for full coverage on the car through the same website so I could deny any local insurance coverage at check in. 

Prior to driving in Italy you must obtain an international driver’s permit. We did this by going to the local AAA insurance office in San Francisco and paying for the permit and taking photos. It took about 10 minutes in total and we were good to go. 

When we arrived at the Hertz counter on the top of the airport levels we took a number and waited. We were getting used to this process of waiting. I think we do prefer taking a number in place of standing and waiting for a line to move along. 
The Rental Car Waiting Area

We were checked out pretty quickly from Hertz and made our way out to the stall where our rental car was parked. We still couldn't believe we were pulling our own luggage and were officially on our vacation again. And back on schedule!!!

The car is a Renault Captur. It's pretty comfortable but the engine is a bit weak. The bluetooth doesn't work but luckily we always bring auxiliary cables and usb cables for playing music. :)



Italy drives on the same side of the road as the USA so there wasn't much to worry about in that regard. I began to slowly make our way out of the airports winding garage and out of the front of the airport when I quickly realized that the roads in Italy are full of many roundabouts. The process of going in and out of these takes some getting used to. But when you get the hang of it the efficiency is much better than a stop light in the US. 

We were on the highway soon after and on our way to Modena. The drive to Modena is about 2 hours long. At one point we came across a toll booth. One side had what is clearly marked as a prepaid card area and the other side was for those paying in cash. At this booth you weren't paying, but only taking a ticket to pay later as you exited the expressway. So we took our ticket and the gate opened and we continued along. 

There were plenty of green pastures and farm houses to see along the way. The expressways go around 130kmh at times and sometimes down to 90kmh. The left lane is more specifically used for people passing or going over the speed limits. Italians waste no time flashing their lights at you to move out of their way. They also get much closer to your bumper when doing so than I would typically see in the US. I was excited to see some vacationers towing Italian trailers along the expressway. As we are fellow trailer campers it was cool to see. Some pics below. We only made one stop along the way to go to the bathroom and continued on our way. The stop we made was at a chain called Autogrill. It was a madhouse in this place and we got out as quick as we could. 
On the Road!





AutoGrill Parking Lot
At one point along the drive I pulled over to a gas station diner combo to fill up the car with gas. I tried using my credit card but it was rejected. Then I used cash instead and went to fill the car. After I filled up the tank I had change coming. I went back to the machine and it said to go inside to get my change. I went inside the diner and realized the gas station is next door to the diner. I went outside and over to the gas station front door and it was locked. I went back into the diner and asked, in English, about the gas station and how I can get change. Nobody knew what I was saying. I asked if they spoke inglese and nobody did. Then I got the attention of one of the diner workers who understood what I was getting at. She walked over to a guy who was getting pretty serious with a sub sandwich. I heard them discussing stuff and then he looks at me and says "2:30!!" in italian. It was something like 1pm at the time of this discussion. In Italy it is common for businesses to be closed during this time for their employees to have a long lunch break. I completely forgot about that and also didn't think that would occur at a gas station. The guy would not budge. So I started to stress out about having to sit on the side of the expressway waiting for my change from this guy for an hour and a half. The lady at the diner was super nice and gave me change out of the diner register. We were back on the freeway shortly after. 

We arrived in Modena after some pretty crazy turns, loops and navigation blunders. Luckily we were able to adjust quickly and get back on track or on occasion make questionable turns. Modena is a very cute town. It had a small village vibe for sure. If you think the name is familiar to you just have a look at your Balsamic vinegar bottle. If it isn't from Modena throw it out. Modena is the world leader in Balsamic making. 

We checked into our hotel, Vittorio Veneto 25, and took a bit of a rest before figuring out our dinner plans. Our hotel was clean and cozy. The check in process was completely automated. We were given a code to get in. Then we had a code for a lock back inside the lobby that gave us the key to our room. We could also use that lockbox for anything we needed. They only have a receptionist on premises from 8am to 12pm. It was simple and easy and we had no issues following their process for the mostpart. 
Our room in Modena

Every bathroom we've had in our hotel rooms has had one of these. 

Inside lobby to our hotel in Modena

Modena Hotel Bathroom Sink

Modena Hotel

Modena Hotel

Modena Hotel
The entire reason we booked a night in Modena was to visit the world famous restaurant Osteria Francescana which we learned about on Chef's Table and Master of None. Three months ago I set my alarm for 1am. The goal being that I would wake up and get on the reservation system for this restaurant. Well when I woke up at 1am and logged onto the site it already had a pretty deep queue. I kept my browser open and went back to bed. 

When I woke up the next morning the queue was down to 30 people in front of me. So when my turn came I looked up reservation options and we were only allowed to book lunch and it wasn't on the day we would even be in Modena. We had already booked our room in hopes of this plan working out. *Sad Trombone*

From our hotel room we searched around a bit and found a restaurant called Zelmira that looked and sounded great. Zelmira Website One thing that is common in Italy is that dinner opens around 7pm or 7:30pm and sometimes even later. So a restaurant may not answer their phone or take reservations during the off time. We decided to wing it and just stroll over at opening time. 

On our way we stopped by the Osteria Francescana restaurant to snap a picture for tourism sake. :)


Osteria Francescana

Osteria Francescana
When we walked up to Ristorante Zelmira I lead with "Parla Inglese?" - as I'm getting good at saying and the host indicated he spoke very little. I asked he had room for 2 for dinner. He asked if we had a reservation and I said no. He looked said and said in english, "this is a problem." But then a brief conversation with someone else he quickly ushered what looked like staff members off of a table and seated us there. Woot, we made it with no reservations. 

The waiter quickly showed us the English menu which was very convenient. For dinner we had the following: Ricotta and Potato cheese flan, Ceviche with house made potato chips,  Shrimp and Butter Risotto, Sage Butter tortellini filled with Butternut Squash, Charred Roasted Octopus and a side of seasoned potatoes. Deanna loved her risotto and commented on how rich it was, but good. I think the tortellini I had was mindblowingly good and still sits as the best thing I've eaten in Italy thus far. The sage butter was so perfect and the tortellini was so fresh and delicious. 


Ricotta Cheese Potato thing

Ceviche

Shrimp Risotto

Amazing Tortellini

Octopus

Potatoes

My finger became a breadstick and fell off. 

After dinner we decided to explore the town a bit and walk around in search of a Gelato place I looked up. As we walked around we really enjoyed the atmosphere of Modena. There were many large groups of teenagers and 20-something adults heading out for the night. It was 10pm at this point also, which is a bit different than what you'd see in the US for people going out on a Sunday night. 
I loved the colors around Modena

Many roads in Modena had stone pavings. Thankful for the sidewalks. 









Cigarette machine

Piazza in Modena

We found the gelato place called Bloom Naturalmente Gelato. I ordered the pistacchio and Deanna ordered strawberry (fragola). They were both very good and hit the spot for an after dinner treat. We sat on the curb people watching for awhile. Then wandered the streets back to our hotel always in search of hidden art and things of interest. 



We hooked up my Ipad to the TV and enjoyed some movies that I preloaded and went to bed soon after. 

That is the end of Day 4.